Monday 2 December 2013

The Snow Goose, Winter Swans and Darwin's Lost Ship


Whooper Swan at Welney




The other day, I was reminded of the story of 'The Snow Goose'.  I was at Welney (The Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust Centre) watching dozens of pure-white Whooper Swans flying in to be fed at sunset. Whooper Swans migrate from Iceland to Britain every autumn to spend the winter here.  Watching these beautiful birds fly in against a fiery, Fenland sky is an amazing sight, and so atmospheric - even if I did watch them from the warmth of the observation room (and my photos of Welney are all through-the-glass shots)

Welney Sunset




Also flying in for food were dozens of ducks and geese. Now I've mentioned many times before that I love geese (having some of my own), so I was in heaven at Welney watching all this wonderful wildfowl, knowing that a fair proportion of these birds have flown across oceans and seas battling harsh weather to reach here. And it was the thought of the birds flying through storms that reminded me of Paul Gallico's 'The Snow Goose'...





I'm sure you know the story (it's a children's classic) but here's my brief summary. The Snow Goose, a young bird migrating across the North American continent, has been blown off course in a terrible storm to the wild and isolated Essex marshes (so the setting of this story is actually more my back yard than the Fens). There, when she comes to rest at last, she is shot by wildfowlers (and you can imagine my feelings about these...) The injured bird is found by a girl, half-wild herself, who takes it to a local man to be healed.

The man, Philip Rhayadar, who is disabled - lives a lonely life in an abandoned lighthouse, painting, sailing his boat and caring for wildfowl. He is isolated from the local community because of his appearance and the fact that the wildfowlers resent his protection of the birds. Together the man and the girl, Frith, heal the Snow Goose, and although she leaves in the spring with other migratory birds, she returns to them every winter. Then, many years later, in 1940, Philip sets out in his 'little ship' to rescue soldiers from Dunkirk, and on one of these trips he is killed. The Snow Goose has flown with him on these rescue missions and stays with him until he dies. She then returns to Frith, 'a wild spirit', flying over her as she waits for Philip, before she disappears for good.

It's an unashamedly sentimental story, of course - and it has a very old fashioned feel about it.  But it's also very descriptive and haunting. Although it was written over 70 years ago, the landscape where it is set still has that sense of wildness and remoteness about it today (and at this time of year, it's the perfect antidote to Christmas shopping crowds...)

Darwin's Lost Ship

The marshes at Paglesham
 Just a note on my last visit to the Essex marshes. I was visiting Paglesham, a village right on the coast. Buried in the mudflats beyond the village lies the wreck of  HMS Beagle - Charles Darwin's ship. No one knows for sure where it is, but it does seem incredible that this famous vessel, where Darwin made his notes and drawings and came up with his theories, is now lost under the mud. The ship is in this part of the country because it finished its life as a coast-guard vessel chasing local smugglers.

After a quick search on the internet, I've discovered that there is at least one project where a replica of the Beagle is being built - and I'm sure this ship will look amazing. But it just won't be a preserved original.

I don't know whether the ship will ever be found - I don't suppose there is much of it left.  It was sold for scrap in 1870, and a large part of it was probably broken up.

But it is fascinating to think that this ship - with all that history - is out there somewhere...



Well, I don't believe I'll have time for anymore birdwatching or visits to the coast for the rest of this month...

It's December already....and I can't put off that Christmas shopping any longer...

50 comments:

  1. Dear Wendy - I am totally in love with your last photo - the fabulous amber sky with its black silhouettes.
    Really interesting to read about the HMS Beagle supposedly lying in the mudflats near Paglesham. My understanding is that mud actually helps to preserve wood - it is surprising that no archeological work has been done or is planned to try and find it.
    I have a great interest in the Darwin family, as one of my relatives married into the family, and I have a tobacco jar from my grandmother which is supposedly from the Darwin family.

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    1. Thanks Rosemary. That is fascinating about your connection to the Darwin family and that you have the tobacco jar. What a wonderful history to explore further.
      I was wondering about the ship being preserved in mud, too. From what I understand, some archaeological work has been done in the last 10 years or so using radar and it is thought that the ship may have been found - but for some reason no further archaeology has been done. I think that may be down to resources and so obviously the money hasn't been raised (or applied for) to do anymore.

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  2. I'm in a rush so haven't read this properly but the photos are fabulous. Will come back later and do it justice!

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  3. Loved this post Wendy, you know how much I love geese too, and the story of the Snow Goose. I also didn't know that the Beagle ended up in Essex, fascinating!

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    1. Thanks Jessica. I do know you also have a soft spot for geese - they are such wonderful characters!
      The fate of the Beagle has been always been a mystery and it does seem strange that there hasn't been a well-funded operation to recover it over the years. It's such a famous ship.

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  4. What a lovely post, very atmospheric and an antidote to the nightmare of Christmas shopping. I didn't know about the Beagle, such a sad ending for a piece of history. I've done most of my shopping online. Can't take the same old music in the shops anymore :( Debbie.

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    1. Thanks Debbie. I agree - it is a very sad ending for a ship with this history. It was essentially abandoned and forgotten.
      I think I'll also end up doing most of my shopping online. I can't take that music either!!

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  5. Your photos are superb especially the last one, it must have been wonderful seeing all those swans and so much better than Christmas shopping. I shall have to revisit the story of the Snow Goose.
    Sarah x

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    1. Thanks Sarah. I don't think, at the moment, I could be in two more different places. Christmas shopping is so crowded and noisy and enclosed - and watching the birds in big, open spaces is so peaceful and relaxing!

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  6. The swan is so beautiful! And all of your photos are so beautiful as well. The first sunset reflecting in the water is amazing. Hopefully, you will be able to visit the beagle replica when it is completed ~ that is sure to be an interesting experience! Have a wonderful day, Wendy!

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    1. Thanks Stacy. I do mention many times that I love the sight of sunsets over water - especially when the water reflects the fiery colours. The sunsets in the English Fens are amazing because of all the water and the huge skies.
      I would love to see the replica of the Beagle - I hope I'm able to.
      Have a lovely day, too!

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  7. Such beautiful photos and a hauntingly lovely story. You are right, it's such an antidote to Christmas madness. We were at Slimbridge on Saturday, in a similar heated observatory, watching Bewick's swans flying in to be fed. So enjoyable.

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    1. Thanks CJ. I think you know how I envy you living so close to Slimbridge. Welney is quite a drive from me so it's not an easy place to visit. I'd love to see the Bewick's Swans, but we were just too early to see them at Welney. I'm even more amazed by their journey all the way from Siberia.

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  8. What fabulous fabulous photos and wonderful stories too - I had forgotten the Snow Goose story - loved this post Wendy.

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    1. Thanks Elaine. I'd forgotten the Snow Goose, too. I think it was read to me in school. Anwyay, it came back to me as I was watching the white Swans fly in after their long journey. As it is set in the Essex marshes, and I'm exploring them this winter, it did seem appropriate to read it again.

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  9. Beautiful photos of beautiful birds. When we lived in the NW, we went to Martin Mere, Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust, as often as we could to see thousands of pink footed geese and swans there. I miss them down here.
    It was fascinating reading about the Beagle, but won't it be preserved like the Mary Rose was, in all the mud?

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    1. Thanks Pauline. I would love to visit Martin Mere, too. I hope I can one day.
      That is interesting about the Mary Rose - and the Beagle hasn't been in the mud as long, either. There must be something there to salvage. Advances in technology and equipment have to make it even easier to lift a ship wreck in the 21st century (than it was in 1980s)

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  10. Beautiful photographs Wendy. The story of the Snow Goose reminds me of the Secret Garden- a similar feel. Fascinating about Darwin's Ship too.

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    1. Thanks CT. The Snow Goose does have that feel of an old fashioned classic story. I was wondering if it would be written today, but it seems in a way it has, because apparently Michael Morpurgo has said it hugely influenced his novel 'War Horse'.

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  11. What a wonderful post! I remember watching the swans fly in at Welney many years ago when we lived over that way, it was a wonderful sight. When we visited Sir Peter Scott's lighthouse at Sutton Bridge last year we saw a copy of a painting by him of his wife Elizabeth Jane Howard posing as Fritha from the Snowgoose story. The Snowgoose Trust now look after the lighthouse. I didn't know about Darwin's Beagle so that too was a fascinating read, thankyou:)

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    1. Thanks Rosie. The painting of Elizabeth Jane Howard holding the snow goose fascinates me (although I've only ever seen smaller pictures of it) and I hope to visit the Lighthouse one day. I love Sir Peter Scott's paintings of wildfowl - I think they're wonderful, especially the paintings of the snow geese. When we were at Welney I had a good look in the shop at all the cards of his paintings. It's a dream of mine to own an original!

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  12. A couple of weeks ago the sight of a skein of geese reminded me of Gallico's 'The Snow Goose'. Such an incredibly poignant book. In the 70s Camel recorded a record based on the book - capturing the evocative, wild, desolate beauty of the book and the landscape in which the story was set. Both book and music really took hold of me and since then have become part of my vocabulary in understanding the world around me.
    It is amazing about the Beagle and I love the last photograph (the smoky colours of sunset- gorgeous!)

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    1. Thanks Richard. I'd heard about the music by Camel (inspired by the book) - but I've never listened to it. I must do so. It seems the haunting story of The Snow Goose has been an inspiration to many artists.
      I hope this isn't the end of the story of the Beagle, but I wonder if the interest is there to do anything more about it.

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  13. A lovely post Wendy with some great photos. Love the sunset at Welney. We used to visit Slimbridge when the children were little for the ducks and geese but haven't been for years.

    I must re-read the Snow Goose - thanks for reminding me about the story.

    It was really fascinating to read about the Beagle - it would be wonderful if it was ever found.

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    1. Thanks Caroline. Slimbridge is very high on my list of places to visit - especially at this time of year. As I replied to CJ we were too early for the Bewick's Swans at Welney which was such a shame - seeing the Bewick's Swans and the Whooper Swans together in such great numbers would be a real treat.
      We saw the sunset feeding but I'd like to see the floodlit feeding, too

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  14. What a gorgeous post, I simply love Welney and the Ouse Washes and seeing all these pics makes me really want to visit again :-) Like you I love Geese (as well as Wild Swans and pretty much any wildfowl) and the sights, and perhaps even more so the sounds, of such places at this time of year is something which is very special indeed. Fantastic sunsets too and as you say those huge Fenland skies just seem to add an extra bit of magic to the whole wonderful spectacle :-) Simply fantastic stuff :-)

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    1. Thanks David. At this time of year I wish I lived nearer the Fens to watch the wildfowl in the landscape there. I don't think I've seen a sunset fill the sky quite like I have in that part of the world - truly stunning. And I agree about the sounds, they echo around a landscape like that - wonderful.

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  15. I totally understand your love of geese, I love them too. Oh some fantastic pics here, I loved the waterfowl and that last pic is so hauntingly beautiful it actually gave me goosebumps. You are lucky to live where you do.

    I loved hearing about the Snowbird, I haven't read it and even though you say it's a children's book I think I'll read it. I would have loved that as a child, I loved Jack London's books.....

    Christmas shopping....sighs.... I suppose I'll have to start thinking about it too.xxx

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    1. Thanks Dina. The marshes are close to me, but still a drive, so I can see myself being too busy to visit again soon given Christmas. And I'm even more behind with preparations this year than I am in other years, for some reason.
      I've never read Jack London's books and would love to. You've given me an idea for some Christmas reading - thanks!

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  16. What a great post and a great read. Would love to visit and see all Swans my favourite birds at the moment...a little to far.
    Have heard about the story " The Snow Goose" but I have never read it....you sold it.. Of to find the book to read. Thanks. Amanda.

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    1. Thanks Amanda. The Whooper Swans - and the Berwick's are beautiful birds, but I had to make special trip to see them. I managed it this year, but I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to Welney again myself.
      The Snow Goose is a very quick read. Although it's sentimental and old fashioned, it's a very simple and atmospheric story.

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    2. Have ordered the book from Amazon

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    3. I hope you enjoy the story!

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  17. Beautiful pictures, love the geese and swans. Great pictures, I love the sunset.

    We have alot of wildlife here where I live too.

    Greetings from Greenville, South Carolina, USA :)
    Michael

    http://michaelswoodcraft.wordpress.com/category/mountain-wildlife/

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    1. Thanks Michael. That's interesting about your own wildlife. It must be very special having so much in your own local area.

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  18. Marvellous sunset images Wendy. Love the swans and geese images from Welney, looks like a beautiful place to visit. What a beautiful story of The Snow Goose, thank you for sharing this tale with us.

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    1. Thanks Suzie. I've not been to Welney at other times of the year, but I think winter has to be the best time to visit here with the thousands of swans and geese returning from the north. It is just stunning.
      It was interesting returning to The Snow Goose as an adult.

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  19. Wendy I loved this post ! The snow geese are beautiful as are your amazing photos of the land.
    Thank you so much for sharing such interesting info and mesmerizing shots .

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    1. Thanks Willow. Geese and Swans are so photogenic - I hope one day to get some beautiful photos of them in flight.

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  20. Great story and lovely photos, Wendy! I really like geese and hope to have some of my own one day. I'd like to get a pond dug on our property so we can have geese and ducks!

    PS - Thank you for the kind comment on my blog. I appreciate your visit! :)

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    1. Hello Tammy - thanks for visiting and for your kind comment. I have to say it is wonderful keeping geese - of course they can make a noise, but I love their intelligence. Hope you're able to keep them one day!

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  21. Beautiful images Wendy, it must have been magical watching the birds fly in at sunset. I love "The Snow Goose", haven't read it for years.

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    1. Thanks Janet. Watching (and hearing) the birds fly in against a fiery sky and water was very special. The birds appeared golden, too, with the setting sun shining on them - but unfortunately my photos of that weren't so clear.
      Hope the stormy seas at the moment aren't causing any damage where you are. Take care.

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  22. Beautiful photographs. I love the Fens. So mysterious and primitive. It is always a shame when an important historic artificat is lost. Darwin's niece built a beautiful house near Crawford Bay in British Columbia. Letters from her Uncle have been preserved.

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    1. Thanks Susan. I agree there is something very mysterious and primitive about the Fens - you've given a perfect description of them, especially at this time of year.
      That's very interesting about Darwin's niece and the letters. It's such a shame for so many reasons the Beagle hasn't been preserved - it would have made a wonderful museum if it had been cared for with many of the original papers and objects on show.

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  23. Hi Wendy, you live in such a beautiful area of the world! Your photos of the sky and landscape are just amazing! And, of course, not to forget of the birds. I didn't know the story of 'The Snow Goose' (I am originally from Germany and it does not seem to be popular there) and enjoyed reading it very much. It is amazing that these birds migrate over so long distances. They certainly deserve to be fed in the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust Centre. Wishing you a nice week!
    Christina

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    1. Thanks Christina. I'm always amazed by the distances that these birds fly, often in family groups and through all sorts of weather. It is wonderful to think that they find a sanctuary in the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust Centres. The people working at the centres must take real pleasure in tracking individual birds and watching them come back every year.
      Have a lovely week too!

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  24. Stunning photos Wendy!! The first whooper swan image and the sunset are absolutely beautiful! I'm not actually familiar with the snow goose story, it sounds a bit sad, but I think I shall have to give it a read as from your summary it sounds like a lovely story. I hope the Christmas shopping is going well! I really do need to get started with mine!

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    1. Thanks Lou. If you pick up The Snow Goose you'll read it in no time, but - yes - be prepared for the sad ending!
      I'm still behind with Christmas shopping, too. I've not been organised this year at all.

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